by Anita Smiley
The question is often asked — what should I do with five days in Finland (or two or a week or whatever). How does one even get started with answering such an open-ended question? Our Smiley Group spent 15 days in July on tour in Finland, which, to me, is hardly enough time to share this diverse and historically rich country. The major focus on our 2026 tour was Lapland, the indigenous Sami people, and their home area north of the Arctic Circle. Travel in other areas, briefly outlined in this summary of our tour, rounds out the overall experience. If there are some aspects of this trip that might help someone get a better idea of what beautiful Finland has to offer, I hope they can be put to use. I say, with assurance, that Finland does not disappoint.
Our five-day exploration into Lapland, starting at Rovaniemi, the capital of Lapland, was intriguing to say the least. It is no wonder that tourism in this area of Finland increases yearly. In the early years of Lapland visitations, Santa Claus/Joulupukki was the main attraction. Joulupukki still continues as a favorite for many, but there is now a great deal more. The “great outdoors,” nature in plain view, is the main attraction for many, regardless of season. Hiking is a popular pastime in Finland. Vegetation changes from the lush pine and birch forests of southern Finland to scrub brush and stubby trees. The lichen on the tundra provides nourishment for the reindeer. Color is provided by wildflowers and berry bushes which somehow survive under harsh conditions.
It is important to note that Lapland suffered extensive damage during the Lapland War in 1944. Rovaniemi was almost completely destroyed, and many small villages were burned as the German troops retreated through northern Finland into Norway. Finland’s wartime history was presented in a vivid presentation at the Raate Museum later in the tour as we headed south.
From Rovaniemi, our introduction to scenic Lapland started with a stop in Kukkola at the Kukkolankoski Rapids on the Tornio River, which separates Finland from Sweden. Dipnet fishing for whitefish is the specialty of the area. Enjoying a taste of the whitefish was a highlight, along with a few quiet moments to relax and bask in the sounds of the rapids on a warm summer afternoon. This scenic area was introduced to the world when Gordon Ramsay visited and mingled with the locals, tried his hand at fishing, and learned the secrets of preparing the “perfect” whitefish.
Our tour itinerary had us in Rovaniemi on July 4, and a celebration of our country’s 250th anniversary was planned. Our hosts at the Poropirtti were waiting with a special surprise. We were about to partake in their specialty: a traditional Finnish Christmas menu served as a luncheon buffet — a July 4 celebration like no other! (no hot dogs and potato salad!) We joined in singing our national anthem, led by group member Jodie Wagner of Connecticut, as our kitchen crew graciously stood and observed. Continuing with the Christmas theme that afternoon, a visit to Santa Claus Village at the Arctic Circle was next. Visits with Santa Claus, mailing letters at the Santa Claus post office, and shopping completed this memorable day.
Heading further north into Lapland and the areas so popular for hiking in the fells, cross country skiing, and biking, we stopped at the Levi area and enjoyed a round-trip ski lift ride to the top of the fell — a perfect introduction to the beauty of the fell scenery of Lapland. The view of these “worn-down mountains” extends as far as the eye can see. As we continued our drive north towards Inari on long stretches of narrow roads with scant traffic, lo and behold, there was a small establishment offering the enticement of coffee and a munkki (Finnish sugar-covered donut). Too good to resist, we indulged in that delicacy and the mandatory Finnish coffee (kuppi kahvia) at Poropirtti. Continuing many miles on this lonely road, lunch awaited us at Ahkun Tupa in Lemmenjoki. The charming owners were waiting to warmly greet us. These Sami folks shared stories of their family and their culture, even treating us to a joik presentation after our delicious meal of braised reindeer, a “must-have” meal while in Lapland. Joik is a very personal spontaneous incantation dedicated to nature, animals, or a particular situation or person. Having visited Ahkun Tupa on several occasions with my tour groups, I am a fan of the gracious hospitality, scrumptious food, and the immersion into the Sami culture offered by these warm and welcoming folks at this small family business.
Bidding näkemiin, our journey continued north towards a two-day visit in Inari, with lodging in the chalet rooms, each with a private sauna, at the Wilderness Hotel Inari, situated on Lake Inari. A bit of a drizzle did not deter some group members from a quick dip in the lake before dinner. Then conversations were soon flowing as we gathered in the comfortable seating area adjoining the dining room in the spacious lodge. The lodge is strategically placed, with large windows in the dining area presenting the scenic lake view; heavenly — here we were 700 miles north of Helsinki and seemingly in a different world. We didn’t wait for sunset because the sun didn’t set!
Following dinner, the relaxation of a sauna evening was enjoyed in the chalets as preparations were made to head out in the morning for our day of immersion into the Sami culture at the Siida Museum followed by a visit to the Sami Cultural Center Sajos. After several visits to the Siida Museum over the years, I continue to find the exhibits intriguing, accompanied by many fascinating stories about life in Sapmi/Lapland. On entering the main display area, the eye is drawn to wall-size photos of the eight seasons in Lapland. As I walked around the room, I stopped several times to get another view, to etch those scenes in my mind. When visiting an award-winning museum, there is never “enough” time; and such was the case at Siida.
We enjoyed a guided visit at the Sami Cultural Center Sajos, the cultural and administrative center of the indigenous Sami people. The Center was opened in 2012 and is home to the Sami Parliament, the political body of the Sami in Finland. Shopping in Sapmi, of course, is a “must.” The artistry, ingenuity, and skill interwoven into the crafts is to be admired — and taken home as lasting memories and gifts. Displays at the Siida Museum gift shop, the Sami Cultural Center shop, and the Näkkäläjärvi Gift Shop are all intriguing and provide something for everyone’s taste.
Our exploration into the Sami culture continued with a stop in Sodankylä, visiting the gallery of artist Andreas Alariesto. His paintings depict traditional Sami life in an attractive naïve style, similar to the paintings of Grandma Moses. Alariesto wanted to preserve pictorial memories of the Sami lifestyle although he never had any formal training as an artist. A narrative by the artist accompanies each painting. A short walk to Sodankylä’s old church, built in 1685, with an altar painting from 1739, gave us a glimpse of one of the oldest churches in Finland.
A visit to Lapland would not be complete without visiting those charming reindeer, and we made such a visit at Jaakkola’s Reindeer Farm in Sodankylä. The reindeer were waiting for their guests and charmed everyone as they grazed around, accepting handouts of hay, and enjoying the attention. As we ate dinner in the cozy kota, traditionally a portable Sami shelter, our hostess spoke about life of Sami families, explaining that each reindeer is tagged on the ear, identifying the owner. Reindeer are all privately owned. She also shared a rendition of joik music. Gordon Ramsay had included a visit at this reindeer farm on his TV show during his food trek in Finland.
So, back to my point of sharing thoughts on what to do while in Finland, I can say with conviction that Finland is a treasure chest of places to visit and things to see and experience. Helsinki alone has more than 80 museums! What I have shared in previous paragraphs covers just four days on our tour, and those additional eleven days covered much more of Finland’s richness. The selection of inclusions provides a variety. Not listed are the scenic views of Finnish nature as we traveled along the highways and on rural roads, free for all to enjoy and some of my favorite memories of visits in Finland.
Our travels started in southern Finland — Helsinki, Turku and the archipelago Ring Road, with islands connected by ferries; a bit of central Finland — with visits to the Nuutajärvi Glass Museum and the Oiva Toikka’s Birdhouse, lunch with a view at the restaurant at the top of the observation tower Näsinneula in Tampere, a guided tour at the Alvar Aalto Museum and an introduction to handicrafts at the Craft Museum of Finland in Jyväskylä, a stop at the Kuopio tori on our journey to the Iisalmi Brewery Museum for a presentation and beer tasting; a sampling of Karjala/Karelia in eastern Finland — whitewater rafting in Kuusamo, traveling to the Finnish-Russian border on the Raate Road where history was made during the 1939-1940 Winter War, admiring Eeva Ryynänen’s masterpieces at her woodcarving studio in Lieksa, experiencing an exhilarating boat ride across Lake Pielinen to Koli, learning about Karelian cultural history with visits at the Karelian Museum in Joensuu and at the Kihaus Folk Festival in Rääkkylä, and stepping back in time at the Langinkoski Fishing Lodge in Kotka, built for the Russian emperor Alexander III when Finland was a Grand Duchy of Russia.
What you see here is a sampling of inclusions, and I would be remiss if I did not mention the wonderful Finnish meals and hospitality we enjoyed throughout our tour. On the first day of our tour, we were warmly welcomed to Finland by Tina Strandberg, Executive Director of Suomi Seura/Finnish Society, and Kaisa Kaakinen, Communications Director of the Finnish Literature Society. Similar hospitality greeted us at every visit during our tour. Evening walks and sauna indulgence were enjoyed by many, as were additional activities such as sightseeing via hiking, scooters, and bicycles when time permitted. We arrived back in Helsinki, having traveled more than 2,000 miles on our comfortable coach. The average price of gas in Finland, noted along our route, was about $8 per gallon.
My mission during forty years of organizing Finland tours — 30 tours to date, carefully planned and varied each year — has been to present Finland as an appetizer and a tease to draw people back for more. I have succeeded with my family, exposing them to their heritage in the best possible way. My children and grandchildren have all been to Finland more than once, with two Finnish grandchildren growing up and living in Finland. My husband Jack became totally immersed in all things Finland after his first visit and was given the title of “galvanized Finn.” Meeting relatives along the way is the icing on the cake for many travelers, including our family members.
It appears that I am enticed back to the drawing board, with my map of Finland opened wide, for another round, another puzzle to put together for next year.